Not only did these brands let the couture vibe influence (and elevate) their clothes, but, perhaps coincidentally, their placement on the calendar also seemed to work in the reverse, with the couture collections embracing a lighter (and, a little less stuffy) aesthetic. This Paris couture season saw three more designers (Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Monique Lhuillier-all who had migrated from New York Fashion Week) present their SS18 ready-to-wear collections alongside the couture shows, as well as two hotly anticipated resort offerings (Miu Miu and Dundas). But, more importantly, their inclusion signaled a shift for what Paris Couture Week (and couture, in general) could look like in the future. So, naturally, Vetements, known more for their kitschy oversized hoodies than they are for hand-stitched evening gowns, became the Big Story of the week. Because the clothes do not end up on store floors-most couture clothing is made-to-order for clients rich enough to afford it-the guest lists and seating charts are much more exclusive and, thus, its vibe is markedly more somber. Paris Couture Week is traditionally known as the more serious and accomplished older sibling to the numerous ready-to-wear and resort collection weeks that surround it. ![]() Sure enough, the label's name (which translates simply to "clothes" in English) was printed on the official calendar. ![]() Vetements wasn't planning to storm the Bastille or anything they had been officially invited. Though the cult fashion label had already developed a reputation for showing designs in places they shouldn't-in a legendary underground Parisian gay club for their groundbreaking FW15 show, in a Belleville Chinese restaurant for their follow-up SS16 outing-this was different. ![]() "What is couture anyway?" It was the question on everyone's lips in May 2016 when Vetements announced that they would present their SS17 ready-to-wear collection during Paris Couture Week.
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